Simply brilliant. I loved this story about Bruges as much as I loved the place when I was there three years ago. You brought my memories back, yet I learned so much from your letter. Your photographs are amazing. I would say professional. If I could pick s favourite, I would say this would be my favourite story from you.
So sorry I didn’t get there during my traveling days. Absolutely superb pics, though, thank you so much for these! Bruges figures prominently in Dorothy Dunnett’s House of Niccolo series, perhaps the finest historical fiction I’ve ever read.
Well, you are the SECOND person to mention Dorothy Dunnett in these comments! It must be my sign to finally give her a try - she's been on my radar forever!
I just bought you a coffee but there was no place to leave a note, so here I am!
I'm lucky to have visited Bruges twice pre-2000, before the huge tourist waves started. I'm not sure I'll ever get back, but loved revisiting it with you.
Thank you so much Betty! And I'm glad you mentioned it was you - one thing that makes me sad is that Stripe doesn't provide names on transactions, just email addresses...so I'm not always sure who to thank!
A few takeaways: If you are to be cursed, to be cursed with swans is not the worst. Agreed! I must get In Bruges in my queue for a rewatch (likely the first in 17 years!). I keep trying to "make Bruges happen" in my travel plans and settle in for at least a month. I would love to be there in late autumn, I can imagine it is glorious.
Thank you Jodi for sharing Mary's story and this wonderful post. I was transported.
Thanks for the kind words Michele! Yes, Bruges is on my short list to re-visit as soon as possible, and I agree - autumn would be beautiful! I hope you get there soon, it's such a lovely city.
When I first saw the movie, I was pretty blown away b/c it was really good. Years later I rented it, and they had chopped out the part where someone (forget who-a couple?) goes to the top of the tower, and dies. The erosion of that scene made what came after less important or edgy, and I was really disappointed. Do you recall the scene where, I think Colin is on the street below and the couple goes up into the tower? Thanks for bringing up the movie. I forgot how good Fiennes was in it, until you related his dialogue on Bruges. Good post, Jodi!
Another excellent piece. Saved to read on the train in the Autumn when we are bound to visit Bruges (and Ghent, Antwerp as well). We’ll have to rewatch the movie.
What a beautiful place that I have never been to...must put it right..especially as it is the location of Niccolo Rising, by Dorothy Dunnett, my current read!
I really had to cioncentrate at first, it’s so complex and dense with characters. But I’m glad I persevered, I’m really enjoying it now. I will move on to the enxt in the series…
Thank you for taking me back to Bruge, and of course you offered places to see that even in five days we didn’t visit, how does that happen? Your photography is brilliant as usual and the stories you tell are full of interesting things to learn about. Always an enjoyable read.
Lovely story. I agree tourist is not a dirty word. Ditto for traveler. I often say I’m “ sightseeing” when asked. Have only been to Brussels. Bruges sounds enchanting.
Glad you enjoyed it! Your comment made me curious, and it looks like you're right - roast swan was popular hundreds of years ago - but it's illegal to kill swans in the UK now because they passed a regulation stating that all swans belong to the Crown. Here in the US, you can hunt swans, but no one does...it just seems wrong, doesn't it??
You have such a keen eye for the perfect detail! 🙏
Such a timely post - just planning a trip - thank you
Lucky you - enjoy!!
Thank you!
Simply brilliant. I loved this story about Bruges as much as I loved the place when I was there three years ago. You brought my memories back, yet I learned so much from your letter. Your photographs are amazing. I would say professional. If I could pick s favourite, I would say this would be my favourite story from you.
How very kind of you - thank you so much!! I'm so glad you enjoyed it! :)
So sorry I didn’t get there during my traveling days. Absolutely superb pics, though, thank you so much for these! Bruges figures prominently in Dorothy Dunnett’s House of Niccolo series, perhaps the finest historical fiction I’ve ever read.
Well, you are the SECOND person to mention Dorothy Dunnett in these comments! It must be my sign to finally give her a try - she's been on my radar forever!
I just bought you a coffee but there was no place to leave a note, so here I am!
I'm lucky to have visited Bruges twice pre-2000, before the huge tourist waves started. I'm not sure I'll ever get back, but loved revisiting it with you.
Thank you so much Betty! And I'm glad you mentioned it was you - one thing that makes me sad is that Stripe doesn't provide names on transactions, just email addresses...so I'm not always sure who to thank!
I use Buy Me A Coffee, which allows comments both ways. This was the first time I had used your system. Does it revert any money back to Substack?
I will look into that! I don't *think* any money goes back to Substack.
A few takeaways: If you are to be cursed, to be cursed with swans is not the worst. Agreed! I must get In Bruges in my queue for a rewatch (likely the first in 17 years!). I keep trying to "make Bruges happen" in my travel plans and settle in for at least a month. I would love to be there in late autumn, I can imagine it is glorious.
Thank you Jodi for sharing Mary's story and this wonderful post. I was transported.
Thanks for the kind words Michele! Yes, Bruges is on my short list to re-visit as soon as possible, and I agree - autumn would be beautiful! I hope you get there soon, it's such a lovely city.
When I first saw the movie, I was pretty blown away b/c it was really good. Years later I rented it, and they had chopped out the part where someone (forget who-a couple?) goes to the top of the tower, and dies. The erosion of that scene made what came after less important or edgy, and I was really disappointed. Do you recall the scene where, I think Colin is on the street below and the couple goes up into the tower? Thanks for bringing up the movie. I forgot how good Fiennes was in it, until you related his dialogue on Bruges. Good post, Jodi!
Another excellent piece. Saved to read on the train in the Autumn when we are bound to visit Bruges (and Ghent, Antwerp as well). We’ll have to rewatch the movie.
Thanks you guys! I am looking forward to hearing about your travels! :)
We are excited to get started … September seems a long way away but I’m sure it’ll race towards us.
Thank you Jodi. I adore Bruges and you truly do it justice.
Looking forward to more on Van Eyck...
Thanks Laura! ❤️ Somehow it always surprises me when I look at a map and see just how close Belgium is to England, I'm envious of you guys.
Yes… I love Brussels too. Gorgeous essay!!!!
A carillon poem by the Swedish poet Tomas Tranströmer
Carillon
Madame despises her guests for wanting to stay at
her seedy hotel.
I have a corner room on the first floor: an awful bed,
a bulb hanging from the ceiling.
Oddly enough heavy hangings where a quarter of a million
invisible mites are on the march.
Outside a pedestrian street goes past
with strolling tourists, fleet-footed schoolchildren, men
dressed for work leading rattling bikes.
Those who think they make the world spin round and those who
think they are helplessly spun round in the world’s grasp.
A street all of us take – where does it eventually lead us?
The only window in the room looks out over something else:
The Wild Square,
a fermenting field, a huge trembling surface, sometimes full
of people and sometimes deserted.
Everything I have within me materialises there – all my fears,
all my hopes.
All the unthinkable that will even so occur.
I have low shores, if death rises eight inches or more
I will be inundated.
I am Maximilian. The year is 1488. I am being held a prisoner
here in Bruges
because my enemies are at a loss –
they are evil idealists and what they have done in the backyard
of horrors I cannot describe, cannot transform blood
into ink.
I am also the man in overalls pushing his rattling
bike further down the street.
I am also the person who is visible, the tourist who walks and
then stops, walks and then stops
letting his gaze wander over the pale moon-burnt faces and
heaving material of the old paintings.
Nobody decides where I shall go, least of all myself,
and yet each step is taken as it must be.
To walk around in the fossil wars where everyone’s invulnerable
because everyone is dead!
The dusty masses of leaves, the walls with their
openings, the garden paths where petrified tears
crunch under heels...
Unexpectedly as if I had walked into a trip-wire the
carillon starts up in the anonymous tower.
Carillon! The sack splits at its seams and
the notes spill out across Flanders.
Carillon! The cooing iron, hymn and pop-song of the
bells, all in one, and written quivering in the air.
With shaky hand the doctor wrote a prescription that no one can
decipher though the handwriting is recognised...
Over roof and square, over grass and switch
Over living and dead their notes now roam.
Christ and Antichrist – which is which?
The bells will finally fly us home.
They have fallen silent.
Wow, beautiful! Thank you for sharing, Kristina. ❤️ I am so embarrassed to admit that I am unfamiliar with Tomas Tranströmer.
Very interesting. Thoroughly enjoyed learning about Bruges, it looks beautiful! Thank you ☺️
Thank you! I'm so glad you enjoyed it! :)
What a beautiful place that I have never been to...must put it right..especially as it is the location of Niccolo Rising, by Dorothy Dunnett, my current read!
Oh, I've been meaning to read Dorothy Dunnett forever! How are you enjoying it?
I really had to cioncentrate at first, it’s so complex and dense with characters. But I’m glad I persevered, I’m really enjoying it now. I will move on to the enxt in the series…
Lovely. You were lucky in your weather!
Thank you David!
Thank you for taking me back to Bruge, and of course you offered places to see that even in five days we didn’t visit, how does that happen? Your photography is brilliant as usual and the stories you tell are full of interesting things to learn about. Always an enjoyable read.
Thank you Sally! 🧡 I'm always amazed by the same thing - there's just so many things to see!
Lovely story. I agree tourist is not a dirty word. Ditto for traveler. I often say I’m “ sightseeing” when asked. Have only been to Brussels. Bruges sounds enchanting.
Thank you for reading! I hope you get to visit Bruges one day - it really is lovely!
Weren't swans good eats back in the day, at noble, or rich merchants' tables? Good visit! Thx!!
Glad you enjoyed it! Your comment made me curious, and it looks like you're right - roast swan was popular hundreds of years ago - but it's illegal to kill swans in the UK now because they passed a regulation stating that all swans belong to the Crown. Here in the US, you can hunt swans, but no one does...it just seems wrong, doesn't it??
They are a lot more attractive looking than turkeys! Maybe even a little less inbred! But perhaps not suitable eats in today's day and age.
Poor turkeys. Each species is beautiful in its own way, right? 😂